Hook up your timing light and see where you're at, rotate the cas until you're on the mark. EFI systems maintain high fuel pressures after the engine is shut down (as you will know if you've ever removed a fuel hose/injector without first bleeding the system pressure). Put it all back together, congratulate yourself on a job well done and shout yourself a beverage for being smart enough to clean your AFM. thank you. Oiled foam air filters will dirty them quicker than anything else. They should look like a shiny glass bead with a fine wire wrapped around it. Refer to TPS Adjustment section. Often the pump will start making more noise than usual. A dirty AFM can also cause your engine to lean out. Testing: Once you've got them all in place, fit the caps and it's time for testing. Sounds simple but it's amazing how many people mess this up. Resetting your engine’s timing back to factory setting is pretty straightforward thanks to the markings provided on the CAS, cams, and pulleys. The problem is if the bottom O-rings haven't sealed properly. They bolt up but you'll need to replace the 6 pin TPS connector and replace it with a 3 pin manual TPS connector. If you've converted to a manual trans then it pays to also convert to a manual TPS for reliability's sake. Any air leak into the manifold will increase idle speed. This will either need to be done on a dyno or else you can temporarily secure a pressure gauge to the car (keep it OUTSIDE the cabin!) Autos : These use a different TPS. Here's a little article I put together for SR20 BOV's. Be careful when splicing into these as they are the main power feeds to the ECU!. The bottom ones sometimes need to be replaced. Usually there’s a fitting in the factory plumbing that hooks this line in just before the TB. This is not some internet rubbish trawled up from a forum - it happens ALL THE TIME! Particularly now that cheap cabin-mount Wideband AFR meters are available. Then it's just a matter of wiring it into your loom. But nobody uses them anymore (ahem...). So at 10 psi boost the fuel pressure should be 53.5 psi. So if you need to adjust idle (you shouldn’t have to) then do it on the IACV – not the TB. In the case of a non-turbo engine power will be down and if the engine is used continuously at full load it may suffer damage due to detonation and/or valve damage from high combustion temperatures. This is a flag which is set inside the ECU when the throttle is closed. All this lubrication and rotating is an attempt to avoid damaging the lower O-rings. This is so you can change when TDC offset of the home signal occurs. Put the CAS back into the head carefully. You will see the light move when you twist the CAS, if you get farther from 15* then rotate the other direction." It has 6 wires. This can be a pain to setup but there is a good range of injectors available. Once the caps are removed the flow rate is unknown and so the "injector modification professional" then checks the flow of each one and groups them together as "matched sets". Bad for turbo and bad for tuning! Hi, I can help. This CAN cause serious engine damage - I've seen bent conrods. 08-09-2005, 09:50 PM. You can usually tell by the way the engine idles. These cars have the ECU behind the right hand kick panel. Inspect the two elements under a really good light. Sometimes they will barely idle. Below is the intake and exhaust camshaft pulley marks. They run from here to a small white plug about 150mm away on S13 or 300mm away on S14/15. They become dirty due to normal airborne crud and from oil mist that naturally occurs in the inlet tract. Then press the injectors into place. cam 45° EXT. You don’t get the reversion back to the AFM but the sudden rush of air to atmosphere is still being measured by the AFM so you get the big rich patch on closed throttle. Particularly if you're one of the big horsepower guys running high boost - if a turbo engine leans out under boost your EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperature) will increase and you'll do engine damage very quickly. Some ECU’s require the home/sync signal to … You basically just need an air source that has been through the airflow meter into the IACV. For S13/early S14 all you need to do is : Result : perfect job that looks like factory. Start your engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature. This isn't usually too hard to work out. For those who are tuning their engines using the factory ECU - stick with the factory FPR unless you have a good reason to change. Pressure with boost applied is calculated by starting at 43psi for 0psi (=atmospheric) and then pressure should rise by 1psi for each psi of boost. You only need the White (signal), Light Green/Black (5V power) and Black (return) wires. They're invariably rubbish. If you think about this, it has to - because the injectors are firing their fuel into the manifold. Firstly there are two different ways to place the pickup. There's often black crud evident. A good place to start is probably how the ECU controls idle. It pays to mark it with some white-out or brightly coloured paint. 1 spark plug wire and battery. The see through cover allows the timing mark to be determined when re-installing the CAS back into the cylinder head. Note also that the timing marks start at -5 degrees so 15 is the 5th mark from the left. Connect a timing light to the No. Most contamination can be removed using a fine brush (as used for painting models etc.) Slowly open the throttle - you should see the voltage increase smoothly to just over 4V. Other people have had trouble using the loop and prefer to sense directly off of No. So even though the flow rate matches the other injectors, the spray pattern is horrible and so low load/cold start/idle/emissions and fuel economy figures tend to be severely compromised. One big (15mm?) With throttle closed you should be seeing 0.5V. Then fuel pressure will be low and your SR will lean out. If you tee into the hose going to the FPR and a leak develops somewhere in your boost gauge/EBC then the FPR won't get the correct boost signal. Turbo engines are a different story. Fasten the MSPNP to the sheet metal in the footwell area and plug in the factory ECU harness connector. This allows you to knock out one cylinder at a time from a laptop connected to the Consult Diagnostic Port. The purpose of the throttle stop screw is to prevent the throttle butterfly from sticking in the bore. Unfortunately the main TPS part also goes bad very quickly. So owners would have their engine tuned on a dyno and then drive around confident that everything was right with their engine. I've seen both. The picture below is the crankshaft marks that need to be lined up before you remove the timing belt. Faulty wiring will also do it. Best way is to just splice into the ECU power. Remove the center bolt in the ECU connector to unplug the connector. You can buy lube specially for this job but if you don't have it then use either Vaseline or engine oil. Beyond that you need to go to a tail-feed setup. Try this one first - just hook the sensor of your timing light through the loop. Unbolt the panel and you are then able to unbolt the ECU. This should be 15 degrees and this is when you take your reading. Use good quality silicon hose and even put clamps on each end. If you’re 100% sure everything is fine then continue on (my CAS bolts weren’t in the middle). Stuff you don't even wanna think about: Another problem associated with leaky bottom O-rings is fuel leaking into the cylinder after engine shutdown. We've been doing it for years with temperature and oil pressure gauges, so why not keep an eye on our AFR's? Happy days! The other half has switches (for throttle fully closed and fully open) which go to the auto trans to determine shift points. There are various factors that can change your AFR. If this is not happening then it uses the main timing maps to determine IGN timing - this will not give us the 15 degrees we're looking for. So if the 5 deg BTDC notch* is within a gnats whisker - the inlet timing is correct. On the CAS, there will be two notches on the shaft that are right next to each other. Carefully probe the 0V wire (Black) and the signal wire (White). Get 'em wrong and smoke will come from your ECU. Check TPS function : While you're playing with the TPS it's a good idea to check it across the range. Lube up the areas on the fuel rail where the O-rings seat, as well as the O-rings themselves. Avoid anything that mentions "hi-flowed", "modified" or "flow matched". CAS body mark lined up with second dot on CAS gear - check. Injector Upgrades: While we're on the subject of injectors, please don't buy drilled out injectors. This part is usually OK. More gives extra power but may lead to detonation and subsequent engine damage. Far from it. If the idle is uneven (power is down on one or more cylinders) then there is a problem. The TPS in auto vehicles is notoriously unreliable. _Ricky got this from the web Posted on Sep 21, 2009 Then bad things happen - combustion temps increase, detonation starts and the next thing you know you've got bits of SR all over the shed and you're pricing engine components. It's also recommended that the hose to the FPR is replaced with high quality silicon hose. Instead of declaring it broken and throwing it in the bin like workshops all over the world do. So the idle problem is more than likely due to a fault with the installation. Replace the screws & plug in your CAS. Installing Tomei Pon Cams (256 Degrees) Stage 1 on S13 SR20DET. For the SR20DE it is 15 degrees BTDC. With laptop: The only reliable method is to monitor the timing directly from the ECU via the Consult Port. 7. Tip for young players : Z32 AFM's can be finicky buggers. This one is very important. I'll add pics (and more information) as time permits. On cars with auto trans this can easily stall the engine completely. It will also adjust ignition timing to trim idle higher/lower. Resetting your engine’s timing back to factory setting is pretty straightforward thanks to the markings provided on the CAS, cams, and pulleys. Take a close look at them - if they haven't bounced back to a nice round section or have cracks/nicks/perishing then don't even bother trying to re-use them as they will leak. There is a limited number of side-feed injector manufacturers. It's mounted on the inlet manifold and you will find an adjustment when you peer down between the runners of the manifold on the S13 - slightly different on S14/15 but easy enough to find. The system is set up so that the injectors deliver their fuel at 3 bar (43.5psi). The idle is controlled by the AAC valve (Auxiliary Air Control). If your throttle is closed but the ECU doesn't see it, then stable idle will be impossible to achieve. It's actually very easy to change your AFM connector to Z32. How To Set CAS Timing on the SR20DET Resetting your engine's timing back to factory setting is pretty straightforward thanks to the markings provided on the CAS, cams, and pulleys. If you're lucky then this is what will happen. The other obvious thing to do is to check your fuel pressure. The Infinity ECU can be reconfigured via the Setup Wizard to properly read the 12 crank/1 cam timing pattern on engines using an AEM CAS … Standard idle speed is 825rpm when warm. Less than 15 degrees will make it very sluggish. Failure of this hose = dead engine. The other way is to hold the throttle open very slightly (TPS Closed flag must still be set) to increase revs a bit. I went through and checked all of the mechanical timing, and everything looks good: 1. We've been running Innovate gear for years and they make a decent product. The top O-rings are usually fine. Adjustment is done by loosening the 2 screws that mount the TPS - NOT by using the throttle stop screw. Please see the diagrams below for your timing marks. 5 minute job. Before you do consider this : unless the engine is a real clunker then there's a pretty good chance that the idle was spot on before it was removed. Adjustment : This can either be done manually (with a multimeter) or by plugging into the Consult Port with a laptop and reading it straight off the screen. Very high quality, includes timing mark display on the sprocket. Now you can plug in and see exactly what's going on in your SR. For more info on how to communicate via the consult port have a look here. You will create your very own personal tuning hell. Don't rev it too much or you'll see timing start to increase. This guide can be used to replace any drop-in replacement cams. Don't touch it. It opens/closes the AAC valve to allow more/less air into the engine. TPS Closed :Check that the ECU is actually seeing "TPS Closed". Some engines use a switch on the TPS to provide this - SR20 ECU's simply look for a certain voltage on the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). How To Set CAS Timing on the SR20DET. If you're not then your fuel pump will just get "lazy". Make sure you get the line that is supplying the fuel rather than the return line to the tank. This guide assumes that the timing chain is installed correctly. Crank pulley (TDC) 2nd notch from the left... INT. So when it is cranked it simply locks solid. I've not met any injectors molesters in the latter category yet. As if the engine isn't really trying. This is just a short length of hose. This is a collection of stuff that we get asked all the time. S14a/S15 use different pins, so you'll need to snip off the old plug and either crimp new Z32 pins on - or get a Z32 connector with a length of wire on it and join the wires. Do not under any circumstances fit a "rising rate" FPR (ie: fuel pressure increases more than 1 psi for each 1 psi of boost). Save your money to buy a good set of injectors! It pays to mark it with some white-out or brightly coloured paint. It consists of a potentiometer (just like a volume knob) that rotates as the throttle is opened and closed. Don't worry too much about that. The SR20DET is part of the SR family of engines from Nissan.. This may or may not already be hooked up. R32/Z32's can be cleaned but not quite as easily because the sensing elements are not a bolt-in job. Removal: SR20 injectors can actually be quite difficult to remove if you don't know the technique. Diagram of consult signal locations for the common ECU's. The Turbo CAS for Coil-On-Plug ignition SR20 CAS converted for use with A-series engine. Check the front pulley. Creating an extremely dangerous situation. As the name suggests this lets the ECU know how far open the throttle is. Standouts being the Bosch EV14 series and the closely related ID1000's both of which perform brilliantly. This is the company (now owned by Bosch) that makes all the electronic components for most Nissans. The Consult Port is extra handy for doing this check as you can log the TPS value while you drive the car - and then check the trace for any drop-outs later. When the auto trans half goes faulty the trans will not shift correctly. Not good. But they're all made by JECS. Rotate them back and forth as you push. 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Then able to unbolt the ECU when the TPS - not by using S13 intake camshaft.. Chain links line up with notches on the cam sprockets - check to prevent the throttle.... Gauge into the cylinder head were right - to start with anyway you need. Fuel lines are visible, so this picture is a collection of that!